Five Chefs In Five Countries
July 2009
Five Chefs, Five Countries, Five Questions...
This month I asked five chefs that worked in five different countries (Thailand, France, Mexico, China and Korea) five questions. I wanted to know, where they cooked, how they got there, what made it cool and what advice they would offer to you if you followed in their footsteps.
This is what they said...
Ciaran Hickey, Korea
Where do you work, City, Country, Job title?
Director of Cuisine, W Hotel, Seoul, Korea
Where’s Home?
Co Kildare, Ireland
Time in Position?
Since September 2007
How did you come to work in Korea?
I was looking for a chance to work with W Hotels, the chef here before me was a friend from Istanbul so he put me in touch with Seoul.
What is the greatest learning experience that your location has blessed upon you?
Asian food and Korean food is a lot more than noodles and rice, it is a very diverse cuisine with a lot of influences. I enjoy exploring it.
Can you offer some advice for a chef that would like to move there?
Eastern culture is some ways close to western but in others very different.
Like anywhere in the world a chef here should stick to his professional standards, but understand and accept that things can be done very differently, and we need to respect the culture we are in.
Coolest thing about living there?
The people and the food are a great combination. It’s a buzzing city.
Simon Scott, France
Where do you work, City, Country, Job title?
Chef/owner of "Les SAVEURS de St Avit in the South West of France near Toulouse.
Where’s Home?
Born in Alnwick and brought up in Morpeth, Northumberland.
Time in Position?
I came here in 2001 after 4 years as head chef of the Savoy Grill at the Savoy Hotel, London.
How did you end up owning your own restaurant in France?
I came across the property by chance while on holiday and fell in love with it. Unfortunately the reality is very different to the dream (location too isolated, summer too short, winter too long etc!!!) We have achieved great national acclaim in food guides, national T.V., radio, magazines ending with a Michelin star in 2009 for all our hard work, but at the start of 2009 we made the decision to relocate to the center of Castres and will be in place by this summer.
Greatest learning experience that your location has blessed upon you?
One of the coolest things to happen is getting our Michelin star in 2009, I think Gordon Ramsay is the only other British chef to be in the French guide!
Advice for a chef that would like to cook or own their own restaurant in France?
Be aware, with all good comes negatives, very high taxes, social charges and VAT (tax) charges. But for anyone highly driven, France still has fantastic restaurants and can offer fine training!
Coolest thing about living there?
France is a fantastic place to live and the food culture is world famous, history, wines, passionate producers.
Rainer Zinngrebe, Mexico
Where do you work, City, Country, Job title?
Executive Chef, Ritz Carlton in Cancun, Mexico.
Where’s Home?
Dortmund, Germany the birthplace of great beer and football.
Time in Position?
I have been an Ex. Chef now for 14 years, seven of those here in Cancun at the Ritz.
How did you find employment in Cancun?
I actually got here by accident, I was hired to open the Ritz Carlton in South Beach Miami and resigned my job in Singapore at the Fullerton for that.
Once hired I took a long vacation and after my work visa for the US was finally approved, I got a call from the then corporate chef, informing me that the South Beach hotel would not open on time but would be delayed indefinitely, he then approached me to see if I would take Cancun instead... the rest is history.
Greatest learning experience that your location has blessed upon you?
The greatest learning experience by coming to Mexico was to learn Spanish, which opened up a whole new world to me, from cuisine to books, to entertainment, you never realize that the Spanish world is almost as big as the English speaking world, with their own foods, cultures, actors, singers etc... It’s huge.
Advice for a chef that would like to move to Mexico?
Well the advice is in the answer above, whatever you do, make sure you learn Spanish as quick as you can, you won’t regret it, it opens doors you never knew existed.
Coolest thing about living there?
300+ days of perfect weather, the Mexican Caribbean with its white sandy beaches crystal clear water, great Mexican food and outstanding employees and great people all around, one of the few places where you feel welcomed as a foreigner and make friends easily with locals - not always the case in other expat postings.
Garry Edson, Thailand
Where do you work, City, Country, Job title?
Hilton Hua Hin Resort & Spa Hua Hin, Thailand Executive Chef
Where’s Home?
Mansfield, England
Time in Position?
1 year 2 months
How did you come to work in Hua Hin?
My best friend was the previous Food and Beverage Manager. When he left he took the Executive Chef with him and put me forward for the vacant position.
Greatest learning experience that your location has blessed upon you?
Dealing with Thai people and Thai culture is very interesting and very rewarding also learning Thai cuisine
Advice for a chef that would like to move to Thailand?
Be patient, open minded and adapt to the way of life while bringing your personality to the position as well.
Coolest thing about living there?
Weather, beaches, shopping and food.
Eren Guryel, China
Where do you work, City, Country, Job title?
Four Seasons Shanghai, China. Executive Sous Chef, the Brigade consists of almost 120 cooks including 10 sous & junior sous chefs.
Where’s Home?
Born in upstate Poughkeepsie NY, Raised in Hartford Vermont
Time in Position?
One Month
How did you come to work in China?
I had worked at the Four Seasons Tokyo so I’d had a taste for living here in Asia. When an opportunity for movement presented itself to me while working in Boston (Four Seasons), I jumped at the chance to transfer out here.
Greatest learning experience that your location has blessed upon you?
Discovering flavors and realizing that I don't know how to reproduce them. I am a student all over again.
Advice for a chef that would like to work in China?
Learn how to draw your vision of a dish. Pictures are universal. Carry a pocket dictionary with you at all times. Anytime you want to say, "unacceptable" or "delicious" and catch the moment when it comes to you is vital. You can't write down everything you want to follow up with and come back to it later. You are already in the weeds, don't create work for yourself unless it is a long term goal. Most importantly, Do Not Be Arrogant. If you even remotely lose your temper, or are perceived to be yelling at someone, the negative energy will flow towards you, not away from you and you'll have a mutiny on your hands. People will always be polite and not be forthright to let you know they don't understand. After you have politely exhausted trying to get someone to understand you...find someone native who is a manager that speaks fluent English and (insert language of country you are a guest in). Let them know you aren't upset, and you need their help making sure the guests get what they are paying for (it's never personal here). It's all about "showing face" and not disgracing others.
Coolest thing about living there?
Meeting other expats. People from all over the world, all doing exciting jobs themselves, in a far away place they call home. Living here is hard enough, but when you meet others that are in your same shoes, albeit a different career, they are going through the same thing, you become instant friends due to the hardship.
The City is growing faster than it can keep up. New York will always be a huge, London too, but just 6 years ago here in Shanghai, they couldn't keep a steady supply of milk coming into the city because they never needed that much. Now Jean Georges has a restaurant in town and there are gourmet shops everywhere. It's great to be a part of it all.
The people and the food are a great combination. It's a buzzing city.
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